Tie & dye work is derived from the Sanskrit word "Bandha," meaning "to tie." It is one of the simplest dye-resist techniques, also known by its Malay-Indonesian name, 'plangi.' Tie and dye is perhaps one of the most widely accepted and traditional methods of printing textiles in India. The design and patterns available are varied and each pattern has its own special significance.

These shawls are very popular and are known for their vibrating colors and designs. Handmade, embroidered and woolen tie & dye shawls from Gujarat is perfect for many occasions. Available in modern to traditional designs, these shawls are extremely comfortable and fits into any outfit, casual or formal. Absolutely charming hand woven and hand embroidered tie & dye shawls are available in paisley, pashmina, silk and wool.

Tie & Die Technique
The increasing demand along with skilled and creative craftsmanship has made tie-dye or bandhini technique very popular in the modern day as well. Today the pattern is done on cotton, silk, muslin and other fabrics.

The first step in the process involves bleaching the cloth and then folding it into two or four layers depending on the thickness of the cloth. In the next step, a rangara or designer marks the layout of the pattern on the material with the help of wooden blocks dipped in geru, which is a burnt sienna color mixed with water. After that the craftsmen begins to tie the cloth, which is not to be dyed.

The folds of the cloth within the small pattern are raised and tied together. The material with the first set of ties is dyed yellow. The cloth is tied and dyed again into red or green. Repeated tying and dyeing results in elaborate designs.

Types of Tie & Dye Shawls:
There are mainly two types of tie & dye shawls:

• Bandhini work : Bandhini is a type of tie & dye work. World famous Bandhini shawls known for their craftsmanship. These shawls are adorned with beautiful embroidery and mirror work. Bandhini shawls are available in wide variety of colors and patterns. Bandhini is a dye resistant technique. Dyeing only selected parts of a piece of cloth is a difficult process, as the dye usually runs along the fibres of the cloth. The dye-resist technique means preparing the cloth before dyeing in such a way that in certain areas the absorption of the dye is resisted.
  
  
• Bandhej work : Bandhej is a unique pattern printed mainly in Gujarat. Bandhej print is also dyed on woolen shawls according to local traditions. They are available in various designs include geometrical borders, large sunburst-like dots, and motifs like the scorpion and peacock. Traditionally, unmarried girls in Gujarat wear black shawls with orange dots, while married women wear shawls in red and black.

Design & Pattern
Tie & dye shawls are available in diverse designs and patterns. Most of the designs used are traditional and depicts flowers and animal motifs. The chandokhni and shikhara are two very popular designs especially created for the brides. There is yet another popular design called barah baag, meaning set of 12 beds of flowers. The shawl when opened looks like a garden of flowers. Ambadal features a network of leaves and branches interwoven with a variety of birds, depicting the branches of a mango tree. Chokidal is yet another motif of squares with elephants and other animals. Red, saffron, yellow, green and black are the common colors used for making tie-dye shawls.

Market of Tie & Dye Shawls in India :
Gujarat and Rajasthan in India are known for their production of fine quality tie & dye shawls. The centers of tie and dye fabrics in Gujarat include Jamnagar in Saurashtra and Ahmedabad. The Kutch region is also famous for tie and dye shawls in wool with beautiful embroidery and mirror work.

The superior bandhni work of Rajasthan comes from Jaipur, Bikaner, Jodhpur, Barmer, Udaipur, Pali and Nathdwara. Actually, Rajasthan is famous for its leheriya pattern, which literally means waves. Pochampalli is also one of the well known traditional yarn-dyeing centers in India. Tie & dye shawls made in India are in vogue in various Western countries. Exquisite designed and colorful tie & dye shawls from India are exported to different countries of the world.