Both types of shawls are used by women to cover their heads and
shoulders, although the less densely embroidered Phulkari shawls are
used for daily wear. The Bagh shawls are mostly very popular in weddings
and other festive occasions.
Style & Pattern:
Multi colored shawls are woven using traditional phulkari embroidery.
Plain woolen shawls are decorated with phulkari work. The base cloth
used for making phulkari is generally rough, home-spun cotton. These
shawls are extremely durable and warm in winter. The unique and colorful
patterns of the shawl in red, green, orange, golden, is interwoven with
beautiful needlework into beautiful masterpieces.
The traditional Phulkari and Bagh were large vividly coloured shawls,
embroidered in symbolic geometric patterns. The variety of colours used
for embroidery were usually shades of bright orange, yellow, lime, and
maroon with a smattering of white.
Design & Stitches:
Embroidered with soft untwisted silk yarn or floss, using different
types of stitches, the phulkari shawls often had different ends, in
different designs. The embroidery covered almost the entire length and
breadth of the shawl. Most Phulkari and Bagh work were made up of two or
three lengths of fabric joined together. Despite the common use of
floral and geometric patterns, the shawls were unique in themselves.
Images of everyday life were incorporated into the patterns such as
birds, temple gates, wheat, sometimes figures, and even rolling pins,
etc. There were some shawls in which the main design was featured in the
centre of the shawl.
The common stitches employed to create a variation on motifs and
patterns in phulkari shawls include:
- Surface satin stitch
- Cross stitch
- Running stitch
Amritsar and Ludhiana are the centres for the production of
exclusively embroidered Phulkari shawls in India. These shawls are
widely popular in India as well as in abroad. Known for their heavy work
and unique designs and patterns, Phulkari shawls are exported to various
countries of the world every year.